“Kabul has one of the most beautiful natural locations of any city in the world. . . Nestled in the Kabul River valley almost 1800m (5,900ft) above sea level, it has an enviable climate and four distinct and equally charming seasons. . . In winter the breathtaking mountains surrounding the city are covered in snow.” Kabul (The Bradt Mini Guide)

Kabul is set on a plateau inside a bowl of mountains. This landscape is perfect for holding in pollution. The only reason the air isn’t nearly unbreatheable is that Kabul doesn’t have enough industry or enough cars – yet.

The UN plane came in fast, barely giving us a chance to see the city’s crumpled chessboard. The sun hid behind a haze of dust and cooking smoke. I got in the slow line through passport control and was the last person but one through. The colleague I’m traveling with had already made friends with our driver by the time I made my way to the exit. He had also grabbed my suitcase on the way out - saving me the need to refuse the persistent and often grabby offers of assistance - even though I had both of our baggage claim tickets.