I've just closed the door behind a gentleman from the hotel who replaced the fresh cut flowers in my room. Kathmandu is beautiful with pale shoots on one half of the trees and dark summer green on the other.
There have been some changes since I was last here in the fall, not even considering the weather, with two of great significance.
First, on February 1st the king dismissed the government and instituted direct rule by the Palace and using the army as his right arm. Many rights have been suspended. Demonstrators are arrested every day. What impact this is having on the Maoist insurgency is completely unclear because we can't trust the press.
Second, and a more personal gague of change, there is wireless internet access at the hotel. On previous trips it has been possible to use the phone to dial-up a very, very slow and epensive connection, or to use the single hotel computer for less cost, but no more speed. The wireless isn't blinding fast, but it does pull in my mail in realtime.
February 1st has become a touchstone, a before and after date in every conversation. Before, things were bad, not getting better, but coherent. After, all is confusion and uncertainty.
International Crisis Group has been writing reports at a furious pace. They also offer some suggestions for what you can do. Among other things, they recommend donations to international organizations working here. Their list is good and I would just add that CARE is the largest NGO in Nepal and their staff here is very, very good.
Posted by Martial